White Rioja wine

September 27, 2010

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The Chronicle Wine Selections: White Rioja

October 12, 2007|By Lynne Char Bennett, Chronicle Staff Writer

Spain’s Rioja region – which runs along the Ebro River in northern Spain – is best known more for red Tempranillo, though white wines are also produced and exported in more limited amounts. Viura (also known as Macabeo and Alcañon) is Rioja’s primary white wine grape, which has fresh, bright acidity and resists oxidation. Occasionally Malvasia can be blended to add richness, body and aroma; Garnacha Blanca is less frequently added for body.

Today, most white Rioja is picked earlier to retain fruit and acidity, then cold fermented in stainless steel, which preserves fruit aromas and flavors – it’s meant to be enjoyed young. That said, a few, like the R. Lopez de Heredia Rioja Viña Gravonia, still produce a classic, aged white Rioja that is longer-lived.

Rioja is one of just two Spanish wine regions that are recognized Denominacion de Origen Calificada (DOC or Qualified Denomination of Origin), an official statement of quality. (Priorat is the other DOC.)

The three regions of Rioja have distinct terroir, though all are mountainous and have long springs and summers. Rioja Alta is along the most northerly portion of the Ebro River and has the coolest, wettest climate. Rioja Alavesa – surrounding the middle portion of the Ebro – is warmer and has more alkaline soil. Most southerly is Rioja Baja, which has a warmer, drier, more Mediterranean clime.

White Rioja may be less available, but we recommend almost half of the 14 tasted. Moderate alcohol level, nice acidity and clean aromas and flavors make these wines a food-friendly addition to your table.

Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Bodegas Breton Loriñon Rioja ($14) Fermentation in American oak with brief lees aging of half the wine provides a creamier mouthfeel and touches of herb and vanilla. Lack of malolactic fermentation maintains the wine’s straightforward sweet citrus flavors, and the oak treatment adds a nice texture to the long finish. Specifically from the Rioja Alta region, this wine is made from 100 percent Viura.

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2005 Cune Monopole Rioja ($18) Fresh aromas of apples, mineral, vanilla, with a slight grass and herb-mint note make an appearance in this wine, which has a similar palate. There’s a touch of tarragon and a moderately long finish. This light, crisply pleasant wine will be even better with food, like simply prepared shellfish, boquerones (fried smelt) and pimento-stuffed olives.

Rating: TWO STARS2004 Diamante Rioja ($13) With aromas and flavors of mineral, green/golden baked apples, melon and touch of honey and lychee nut, this easy-to-drink wine offers a bit of fruity sweetness on the palate. This wine’s touch of residual sugar will support pairing with a fruit salad garnished with slightly salty cheese crumbles, a fig tart or sheep’s milk cheese with quince paste.

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 1995 R. Lopez de Heredia Viña Gravonia Rioja ($25) Intentional aging gives this classic wine a clear, bright, medium-golden color and fino sherry-like character. It’s definitely a different style than the rest of the wines, and you’ll probably have a “like it” or “don’t get it” first impression. There’s delicacy, depth and elegance in the aromas and flavors of hazelnut/almond, fennel and beeswax. A touch of pear, spice and caramel meld in a long finish. Drink this wine now – it’s great with traditional fino sherry accompaniments like Marcona almonds.

Rating: TWO STARS 2006 Marques de Caceres Rioja Dry White Wine ($8) This inexpensive, quaffable white Rioja is made by one of Spain’s largest wine producers – 30,000 cases were imported into the U.S. this year. Bordeaux producer Enrique Forner established this bodega in the late 1960s and pioneered cold fermentation of whites and rosés. Fresh and dry, this wine has aromas of green apples with a hint of mineral and white flowers. There’s a bit of richness on the palate though the wine is lighter-bodied; it tastes of cantaloupe, pear and ripe citrus, with a touch of citrus pith to finish. Made from 100 percent Viura and fermented in stainless steel, this wine should be enjoyed now.

Rating: TWO AND A HALF STARS 2006 Bodegas Ostatu Blanco Rioja Alavesa ($13) Fresh stone fruit, mineral and floral aromas are a prelude to this wine’s pear, citrus and mineral flavors. A pleasing, slightly richer palate ends with minerality and touch of wintergreen on the long finish. Stainless-steel fermentation of Viura with 10 percent Malvasia produces a bright wine that offers a touch of creaminess on the palate.

Rating: THREE STARS 2005 Palacios Remondo Placet Rioja ($20) Oak fermentation and seven months aging on the lees contribute to this wine’s rich, full mouthfeel, complexity and slightly higher price. Peach, apricot and melon with hint of lemon curd combine with sweet oak spice in this wine, which will more favorably pair with foods having some weight and richness. Creamy marinated gigandes beans, Marcona almonds and tortilla española served with aioli or romesco would make a fine match. The fruitier, more expensive 2006 vintage ($30) is an upcoming release.

Source: http://articles.sfgate.com/2007-10-12/wine/17264173_1_rioja-alta-rioja-alavesa-aromas

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