The theoretical quality of Champagne, availability of reserve wines

Date: August 29, 2011

The theoretical quality

The theoretical quality of a Champagne is determined by the following four main factors.

* The fundamental quality of the vineyard

* The quality of the year of harvesting

* The availability of a sufficient supply of reserve wines

* The quality of the producer, his team and the means he utilises.

Fact is that some vineyards, due to a more favourable position and/or a better soil yield better grapes than others. This is what I call the fundamental quality of the vineyard. This is indicated in a Cru percentage. (See below). The quality of the grapes as related to the fundamental quality (cru) may show substantial differences per year. The most important difference is determined by weather conditions between the months of February and September. Sun in summer is all right as long as there is sufficient moisture in the soil. Rain in the end of summer is bad because it makes the grapes too mushy. Too much rain is always bad because it drowns the whole lot.

The quality of the year is reflected in the so-called Vintage Charts. Wine growers harvesting at the same time, with vineyards in approximately the same area will have enjoyed similar weather conditions. The quality compared to competitors will then mainly be determined by the quality of the vineyard and the competence of the wine grower. If wine farmers do not harvest at the same time and exactly during the last week the grapes of a sluggish farmer get a serious drenching, the poor fellow’s grapes are really done for. On the other hand it might just as well happen that the slow farmer is in luck because the extra bit of sunshine during that last week increased the natural sugar content in his grapes (and consequently less chemicals are needed) which gives him advantage over his faster college who ended up with grapes of a lesser quality. The Champagne region is four times the size of the Netherlands. So you cannot be sure that weather conditions in the South were similar to those in the North. Sometimes the weather even differs from valley to valley. What was just a rain shower at one place can just as well turn into a hailstorm some kilometres further on. The Vintage Charts do not take this into account. I hardly know anyone who can make me any wiser. The Vintage quality is therefore no more than an indication. For lack of better we’ll have to make do with it.

Availability reserve wines.

You may already have read that Champagne is made of a mix of approximately 70 still wines that together will go through a second phase of fermentation and maturing in the bottle. If the harvest of one particular year was bad the quality of the Champagne can very well be improved by a generous dose of good reserve wine from previous years. One needs of course a sufficient amount of these wines. Reserve wines have a limited storage life so one cannot keep too much in stock. From a commercial point of view I can imagine that some of the smaller wine growers will use the reserve wines that are near their “sell by date” as quickly as possible, regardless of the question whether such is better for the quality. When the harvest was meagre for a couple of years the supply of reserve wines will really come to its end. The winegrower will then make a choice. Either he will buy reserve wine from others growers or he will make Champagne with little or no reserve wine at all. Here you will encounter different matters such as business philosophy, previous years, the extent of the winegrower’s financial reserves, supply and demand, etc. etc.

The quality of the wine grower, his team and the means and methods he uses are perhaps the most important factors in the overall theoretical quality of Champagne. No matter how many still wines are available, making the right mix of these wines is an art in itself. Having a cellar full of the latest technological gadgets, measuring equipment, and computers that control everything down to the finest detail will give you a better chance of producing a quality Champagne than you would have without all this. However, even if you have the luxury of such a cellar but you haven’t got a clue how to operate and adjust these machines you are bound to make a mess of your Champagne. If the vats, the appliances and systems are not kept clean you can be sure to get fungus and other nastiness in your Champagne. If the team does not keep the cellar doors closed the temperature in the cellars will fluctuate which is damaging. If grape pickers throw with the buckets of grapes, the grapes will arrive at the press all mushy. If cheap yeast is used you’ll end up with lower quality Champagne. I could elaborate in this way a bit longer but I think that I gave you a fair idea of what I mean by the quality of the wineproducer. Here also goes that this quality is not a steady one but from year to year can vary considerably. Change of personnel, illness of the boss, purchase of new machinery, the cellar masters expertise, a new air-conditioning syst and so on, all of these factors have their impact on the quality.

The four quality factors together, (cru, year, backup wine and winegrower) determine the theoretical quality of the ultimate product as it leaves the cellar. Possibilities, limitations and choices of the Champagne house finally determine the theoretical quality.

The practical quality.

The practical quality of what you are being served depends for a great deal of how the Champagne was transported and stored before making its appearance on your table. Even theoretically brilliant Champagnes are done for if not properly stored (dark, cool and undisturbed). (See how to serve).

Ever so often the theoretical quality has nothing to do with the consumer’s perception of quality. I know some Champagne houses that are such shrewd marketeers that time and again they succeed in convincing whole crowds of people that their Champagne is top quality while connoisseurs find the theoretical quality of these Champagnes downright below standard. On the opposite I have seen consumer tests in which (theoretically) really good Champagnes were completely written off. The most revealing and funny I find the difference between blind tasting sessions (Where you cannot see the label) and common y ones. Then, more than ever you’ll discover the effects of marketing and brand boosting.

The practical quality is also a relative and broad notion. A particular Champagne that is wonderful for a certain moment or with a certain dish might on another moment or with different food be a totally wrong choice. Everybody knows the effect of Sangria or glühwein when consumed at the wrong moment. It just is not right…

The (perception of) quality has just nothing to do with the theoretical quality but all the more with the art of matching and promoting. You, as an advisor determine how the party experiences the practical quality of Champagne I as a simple Champagne drinker search my database for the theoretical quality and try to find out whether a certain Champagne should be drunk immediately or whether I should leave in in my cellar for another year or so. If I have to choose between buying Champagne A and Champagne B (and assume that both have been transported and stored appropriately) then I will go for the Champagne with the best price (theoretical) quality relation while taking in consideration both the occasion for which I buy the Champagne and my budget.

When organizing a Champagne advising session I have to take care that the Champagnes fit in with each other, the moment, the surroundings as well as the preference of the guests. When asked for an advice I shall first try to determine, either by asking or simply by assessment ( if there is a reason to think that people are not really interested in asking questions):

• For what kind of occasion is the Champagne needed?

• Is the person I deal with an experienced Champagne drinker or not?

• Has this person a preference for a particular taste and if so for which taste?

• Is this person looking for Champagne for short time use or does he or she intend to buy Champagne for storage.

• Does this person make his choice on a base of quality, of price, or on a base of price/quality relation? What exactly does he or she have in mind?

• Under which circumstances is the Champagne to be consumed?

• With what kind of food is the Champagne to be combined?

As soon as I know what I am going to recommend I will think (briefly) how to present my advice while taking in consideration my guests and my own role. People who are really interested (those who send me mails for example) will get a different advice (not a different Champagne) than people who simply want to make a quick choice from the wine list. A good adviser knows how to manage the perception of quality ere a single glass has been poured.

Serving and replenishing offers ample opportunity for steering the perception of quality. I know a number of people who, exactly at the right moment, tell exactly the right things about Champagne which makes initially apprehensive guests really switch on to Champagne. These people I rate as top sommeliers.

SOURCE: http://www.champagneinfo.net/Productie/DeKwaliteitvanChampagne/tabid/184/Default.aspx

Although the Philippines is not known for being the wine capital of Asia, Clark Pampanga is the most frequently visited destination for wine lovers in Cebu, Angeles City and Manila to shop for some good vintage wine. The famous wine shop outside Manila called Clark Wine Center is the largest wine shop in Philippines which offers over 2000 selections of fine vintage wine from all wine regions, vintages spanning over 50 years covering all price ranges.

This wine shop in Clark is highly recommended as one of the best places to buy wine in Pampanga. Clark Freeport is just outside Manila near Subic and Angeles City Philippines is Clark Wine Center. Visitors buy wine in Manila and Pampanga should not miss stopping at this wine shop for a few bottles of fine vintage wines to bring home.

Established in 2002, YATS WINE CELLARS is a wholly-owned business unit of Hong Kong-based Yats International which owns and operates resort, wine shops, wine bars and fine-dining restaurant properties in Clark Freeport in The Philippines. YATS WINE CELLARS caters to a clientele of discerning wine lovers from all over the world. Besides a good selection of wine for everyday enjoyment, YATS offers a unique selection of aged vintage wines made available to wine enthusiasts at remarkably affordable prices. Vintages span over a century and the selection of old- and new-world wines covers all major wine regions.

http://www.ClarkWineCenter.com

Getting to this wine shop in Pampanga Angeles City Clark Freeport Zone Philippines from Manila
Getting to the Clark Wine Center wine shop from Manila is quite simple: after entering Clark Freeport from Dau and Angeles City, proceed straight along the main highway M A Roxas. Clark Wine Center is the stand-along white building on the right, at the corner A Bonifacio Ave. From the Clark International Airport DMIA, ask the taxi to drive towards the entrance of Clark going to Angeles City. From Mimosa, just proceed towards the exit of Clark and this wine shop is on the opposite side of the main road M A Roxas.

Clark Wine Center
Bldg 6460 Clark Observatory Building
Manuel A. Roxas Highway corner A Bonifacio Ave,
Angeles Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga 2023
(045) 841 4006 / 0922-870-5173 / 0917-826-8790 (ask for Ana Fe)

Wine@Yats-International.com

YATS Wine Cellars
Manila Sales Office
3003C East Tower, Phil Stock Exchange Center,
Exchange Rd Ortigas Metro Manila, Philippines 1605
(632) 637-5019 0917-520-4393 ask for Rea or Chay

Best place to buy wine in Clark Pampanga outside Manila near Subic and Angeles City Philippines is Clark Wine Center.
Wedding couples looking for wedding reception venues and beach wedding venues can log on to this Philippines Wedding Venue web site for free information and assistance:

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While in Clark, it might be a good idea to enjoy an evening of wine-and-dine in the fine dining Yats Restaurant and Wine Bar that features an award winning 2700-line wine list. It is located in Mimosa Leisure Estate of Clark Freeport Zone. For more information, visit http://www.YatsRestaurant.com

YATS Leisure Philippines is a developer and operator of clubs, resorts and high-class restaurants and wine shops in Clark Angeles Philippines http://www.YatsLeisure.com

Looking for famous tourists spots, places to visit and see, relax and unwind in Clark, Pampanga, Philippines? You may want to check out these sites also:

http://www.LondonPubClark.com

http://www.HotelClarkPhilippines.com

http://www.ClarkPhilippines.com

http://www.YatsWineCellars.com

Yats Restaurant is the best restaurant for special dinner, best restaurant for dinner with friends near Manila, also the best place to celebrate special events.

Famous Restaurant in Pampanga, a place to dine with friends in Clark, cozy restaurant with a nice ambience, a nice function place for special occassions

Are you looking for an attractive restaurant or a nice place to eat with friends in Clark, Angeles City Pampanga? Yats Restaurant and Wine Bar is a restaurant with good food and good wines for dinner located at Clark Angeles City Pampanga. Perfect for exclusive dinner venues for groups, recommended for private dinner in Philippines. A Restaurant in Clark for business dinner meeting. Private dinner place or dinner restaurant in Clark Subic Near Manila Angeles City Pampanga. Yats Restaurant is one of the Good Restaurant in Pampanga Angeles City Clark near Manila.

www.YatsRestaurant.com
Looking for interesting hotels near Manila Subic Clark Angeles City Pampanga?
Trouble free hotels and well recognized hotels in Subic Clark Angeles City Pampanga
Clearwater Resort and Country Club offers a good place to stay in Subic Clark Angeles City Pampanga. In offers nice place to have rest in Subic Pampanga outside Manila.
One of the Philippines top hotels in north Luzon.

Where to go in Clark? Hotel Clark Philippines is a De Luxe Hotel in Clark and Subic, a risk free place to stay, cozy and nice ambience, a nice function place for special occassion

www.HotelClarkPhilippines.com