Psst: A Secret for White Burgundy Lovers
June 23, 2011
MEURSAULT, France
HERE in the heart of the Côte de Beaune, the epicenter for white Burgundy, vignerons in their cellars are offering samples of their 2010 vintage, which is aging in barrels, and pouring tastes of their 2009 wines, which for the most part have just been released. But if you love white Burgundy, lean in close, because I’d like to whisper a suggestion: stock up on the 2008s.
Not only here, but from Chablis in the northwest to the Côte Chalonnais and the Mâconnais to the south, the 2008 vintage was cool and somewhat rainy, not at all easy for the growers who had to ward off rot in the grapes.
For consumers, though, 2008 yielded a trove of wonderful wines, racy, lively and full of the mineral flavors prized by white Burgundy lovers. Most conspicuously, the wines are charged by lightning bolts of acidity that give them a surging energy and freshness that I, for one, find captivating. Best of all, even as the 2009s come onto the market, the ’08s are still widely available, and are often good values.
“The 2008 vintage was difficult to sell, partly because of the economy,” said Pierre-Henry Gagey, president of Louis Jadot, one of Burgundy’s leading producers and négociants. “But people are beginning to understand that 2008 was very pure, and there are great deals.”
White Burgundy has gone through some tough times recently. The difficult economy has put the top wines beyond the reach of most wine drinkers, which is understandable enough. Less explicable has been a problem of premature oxidation that has bedeviled the wines since around the 1996 vintage.
Historically, white Burgundies have been gloriously long agers, with track records even better than the reds. But the risk of oxidation, which can make the wines unpleasant, and even undrinkable, at absurdly young ages, has made many collectors fearful of putting away the wines. Producers have acknowledged the problem, which by no means strikes all the wines, and have worked feverishly to determine its cause, making many modifications in their winemaking and bottling techniques. But nobody is ready to say the problem has been completely solved or entirely understood.
All of this makes the 2008 vintage even more desirable. Their tightly coiled acidity, which theoretically gives the wines the structure to survive the long haul, imparts an electric vibrancy that is almost mesmerizing in the young wines.
These characteristics are especially apparent when tasting the wines side by side with the 2009 vintage. The ’09 growing season was warm and dry, and the challenge for growers was to harvest early enough so the grapes would have enough acidity to balance the rich, fleshy fruit flavors.
“The 2008s are dense with good acidity, possibly the best vintage since 2000,” said Bernard Hervet, the chief executive of Domaine Faiveley, the producer and négociant. “The ’09s are easier, more for everybody.”
The winemaking challenge was particularly acute in Chablis, which in years like 2008 makes the most distinctive chardonnay wines in the world, tangy, saline and bracing, redolent of oyster shells and minerals — exhibit A if a courtroom case were necessary to prove that terroir mattered. In 2009, grapes that were too ripe lost that particular quality, resulting in fruity chardonnays that might come from anywhere.
“The 2008s show an amazing definition of terroir,” said Patrick Piuze, a young Chablis producer whose wines are exceptionally pure and energetic. “The 2009s are commercial wines, but they’re still a good definition of the place.”
His 2009 Côte de Bouqueyreaux, from the grand cru Bougros vineyard, is surely Chablis, yet with quiet, lingering flavors of lime and minerals. By contrast, the 2008 is exhilarating in its vivacity, with a presence in the mouth and a length to the flavors that is pure pleasure.
Back here in Meursault, where a prolonged stretch of dry, sunny weather has led some to predict 2011 will be one of the earliest harvests on record, the vintage differences are equally apparent. At François and Antoine Jobard, the ’09 Meursault Poruzots, a premier cru wine, is gently accessible and pleasing with a richness that is balanced by a lightly fresh acidity. The ’08 Poruzots thrusts forward like a rocket, with a stony intensity that is almost shocking. Antoine Jobard said that the 2009s are more enjoyable today, while the 2008s need two or three years, but I’ll take the ’08s.
Not that the 2009s are bad. The best producers avoided the danger of making overly soft, rich wines, and adopted a strategy of picking early and preserving freshness, resulting in balanced wines of moderate size and intensity. The 2009 whites from Domaine Roulot are notably fresh and precise, while the 2008s are razor-sharp, with a far more aggressive acidity.
“Most people say 2008 is better than ’09 — most of the ’09s were harvested too late — but I think it was a great vintage if the harvest date was right,” said Jean-Marc Roulot, who, speaking as a grower, added, “The 2008s are lively and energetic, but in 2009 the grapes were cleaner.”
At Ballot-Millot, an up-and-coming producer based in Meursault, the ’09s are fine and meticulously made, but almost seem like miniatures compared with the tightly wound, assertive, focused 2008s. Like any good vigneron, however, Charles Ballot, the talented young producer, is focused on the future.
“The 2008 vintage is superb,” he said, “and with 2009 there are qualifications, but the 2010 is magnificent.”
Source: http://www.nytimes.com/2011/06/15/dining/psst-a-secret-for-white-burgundy-lovers.html?_r=1
Many tourists and residents of Manila traveling out of town from Manila on a short getaway to Pampanga Angeles City, Clark Philippines are surprised to find a a large wine shop so near Manila right in the heart of Pampanga, just 70 minutes from Manila. Even residents of Subic travel to Clark via ScTex to do some wine shopping in this famous wine shop called Clark Wine Center, a project of Hong Kong-based Yats International.
Foodies and wine lovers travel north from Manila to wine and dine at Philippines’ best fine dining restaurant in Pampanga Clark Freeport worth the 60-minutes drive for a memorable evening of good food with vintage wine at Yats Restaurant & Wine Bar. Most guests would stop by this famous wine shop called Clark Wine Center to bring home a few good bottles of fine vintage wine also. Other visitors may find the wine selections in some of the restaurants in Angeles City Pampanga to be less than interesting, so they stop by this wine shop near Angeles City Pampanga Clark Philippines, buy some good wines and bring these bottles of good vintage wines to the restaurants so they can enjoy the dinner.
Public wine tastings are held by this well known wine shop of Pampanga from time to time in Clark and sometimes in Manila. Tickets range from p500 to p1500 for these themed events that are professionally run –no wine merchants sponsorship, pushy salesmen or tacky banners to ruin the evening. Each ticket contains a certain number of stubs that can be redeemed for a tasting pour of a wine among those on a line-up which often contains wines that are quite old and expensive.
Tourists and residents of Manila travel out of town to the north on a short getaway look for the best place in Clark to buy some fine vintage wine to bring home after their holidays and vacations. Many find a top rated wine shop called Clark Wine Center to be an exciting place to do some shopping in Clark Pampanga. This famous wine shop is highly recommended for visitors going to Clark Pampanga to drink good wine, relax and unwind with friends and families. This frequently visited wine shop is known by tourist and visitors to Pampanga, Angeles city, Subic and Clark Philippines as a cool place to hang out in Clark. Many attend the regular wine tasting held either outdoor on the roof deck or in indoor on the second floor above the wine shop. The place has good atmosphere for a private wine tasting party or a small night out gatherings for business or social event.
http://www.ClarkWineCenter.com
Getting to this wine shop in Pampanga Angeles City Clark Freeport Zone Philippines from Manila
Getting to the Clark Wine Center wine shop from Manila is quite simple: after entering Clark Freeport from Dau and Angeles City, proceed straight along the main highway M A Roxas. Clark Wine Center is the stand-along white building on the right, at the corner A Bonifacio Ave. From the Clark International Airport DMIA, ask the taxi to drive towards the entrance of Clark going to Angeles City. From Mimosa, just proceed towards the exit of Clark and this wine shop is on the opposite side of the main road M A Roxas.
Best place to buy wine in Clark Pampanga outside Manila near Subic and Angeles City Philippines is Clark Wine Center.
Click here to contact Clark Wine Center in Clark Pampanga for inquiries and orders.
Clark Wine Center
Bldg 6460 Clark Observatory Building
Manuel A. Roxas Highway corner A Bonifacio Ave,
Angeles Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga 2023
0922-870-5173 0917-826-8790 (ask for Ana Fe)
Wine@Yats-International.com
YATS Wine Cellars
Manila Sales Office
3003C East Tower, Phil Stock Exchange Center,
Exchange Rd Ortigas Metro Manila, Philippines 1605
(632) 637-5019 0917-520-4393 ask for Rea or Chay
Wedding couples looking for wedding reception venues and beach wedding venues can log on to this Philippines Wedding Venue web site for free information and assistance:
http://www.PhilippinesWeddingVenue.com
While in Clark, it might be a good idea to enjoy an evening of wine-and-dine in the fine dining Yats Restaurant and Wine Bar that features an award winning 2700-line wine list. Highly recommended fine dining restaurant in Manila for special occasion is Yats Restaurant & Wine Lounge located in the famous Mimosa Leisure Estate in Clark Pampanga. Situated near this popular restaurant in Clark is the Mimosa Golf Course as well as the Mimosa Clark Casino. This top rated restaurant near Angeles City Pampanga in Clark Philippines is frequently used for private parties and corporate functions such as board meetings and other gatherings. It is located in Mimosa Leisure Estate of Clark Freeport Zone. For more information, visit http://www.YatsRestaurant.com
YATS Leisure Philippines is a developer and operator of clubs, resorts and high-class restaurants and wine shops in Clark Angeles Philippines http://www.YatsLeisure.com
Looking for famous tourists spots, places to visit and see, relax and unwind in Clark, Pampanga, Philippines? You may want to check out these sites also:
Besides good restaurants to wine and dine near Manila, Subic or in Angeles City Pampanga, Clark Philippines, those requiring assistance for hotel and resort bookings in Clark, Pampanga, Philippines may log on to http://www.HotelClarkPhilippines.com for more information and reservations.
The lifestyle in Clark Pampanga is quite unique. For more information about shopping, sports, golf, leisure, hotel accommodation, where to see and visit, what to do, where to wine and dine and good places to hang out, relax, have a drink with friends, child-friendly establishments, log on to
http://www.ClarkPhilippines.com
Wine lovers looking for a special bottle or something that is of great value and special discounts might log on to this web site to shop for fine vintage wines
http://www.YatsWineCellars.com
Those visitors who plan to relax and unwind in Angeles City, Subic, Pampanga, Clark Philippines might make an effort to book a room at the famous beach and lake resort Clearwater Resort & Country Club. This famous hotel in Clark Pampanga is frequently visited by families with children looking for a good place in Clark to see, a good holiday destination for the family to relax and unwind in the beautiful outdoor facilities. For more information, log on to www.ClearwaterPhilippines.com
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