Barbera wine in Piedmont, Italy

October 4, 2010

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Barbera

From LoveToKnow Wine

Barbera has endured decades of begrudged tolerance among winemakers and wine lovers alike, a grape easily dismissed as undeserving of respect or adoration.

Barbera, the Rodney Dangerfield of Italian Wine

Respect is rarely automatic, not always deserved and not taken lightly. Barbera has lacked respect in the wine world because it was said to be too acidic, too rustic, too coarse, lacking flavor and compromised too easily. Barbera’s only apparent redeeming quality was its cheapness or more modestly put, its value. Perhaps it has had a bad reputation because it is a primary Piedmont resident in Italy’s northwest wine region, where the other two grape varietals, Nebbiolo and Dolcetto, overshadow the lowly Barbera in respect and admiration. It’s grown in other Italian wine regions, in fact, after Sangiovese, Barbera is the second most planted grape in the boot-country, but there’s no correlation with that fact and that people love and praise their Chiantis, their Brunellos, and their Barolos more. While Barbera has been sneered at, spat upon and spurned, bottles of it are commonly found as the table wine in Italian restaurants. What do they know that the snooty critics don’t? Barbera may be underrated, but it’s the everyday underrated drinking wine.

At Home in Piedmont

The wines people think of when Piedmont is discussed are Barolo, Barbaresco and Dolcetto. They deserve their kudos, no question about their worthiness. Barbera’s reputation for creating lackluster character, dearth of flavor and biting acidic wines has started to wear off. The wines deserve a chance. In general, the best Barberas are found in the Piedmont.

Without question Barbera’s will probably never rise to the stature of Barolos or Brunellos, but winemakers are getting wiser in their approach to and handling of the grape. They are planting the vines in better sites, reducing yields and paying more attention to wine production. Longer aging in oak has proven effective to enhance Barbera’s spartan character, bring out flavor, and build balance in structure.

For decades Barbera has suffered under neglect and lack of attention, but the new style is bringing out the richness in the fruit that in turn balances the grape’s inherent acidity. The result is a Barbera that many years ago would not be recognized. Ironically, in the Piedmont Barolo’s gets the accolades but Barbera outplants the Nebbiolo grape by about fifteen times. Part of the reason might be attributed to Barbera’s hardy knack to grow profusely in places other grapes whine and moan and then wither and die.

There are five D.O.C. in the Piedmont for Barbera but there are only two that should get your attention, the best to check out are:

• Barbera D’Alba
• Barbera D’Asti

Barbera Defined

Contrary to Barolo or Barbaresco, a Barbera wine is not a dark and sinister purple but a brighter ruby red. Also, Barbera has negligible tannins and does not age as well. It’s probably a good idea to drink the wine when it’s fairly young, say within four to six years of the vintage date. As it ages, the color will turn to garnet with brownish edges. Regarding its flavors, when expertly done, Barbera shows modes of black cherries, black berries, currants and plums.

Source: http://wine.lovetoknow.com/wiki/Barbera

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