An Irresistible Austrian Riesling Beckons; Buy Wines in Pampanga

Pampanga Clark Wine Shop reports news about wine: An Irresistible Austrian Riesling Beckons

July 14, 2011

LET me immediately declare my bias: I love Austrian rieslings. I say that knowing I’m speaking very generally, but don’t we always about wine?
Of course we do, because we are speaking about ideals, born of experience and nurtured on realized potential. In discussing wine passions, we say, “I love Barolos,” or, “I love Napa cabernets.” But when we apply critical judgment to particular wines, a clearer picture emerges. We don’t love all Napa cabs or all Barolos. In fact, we don’t like quite a few of them. The ones we like best meet internal standards that have developed over time.
So when I say I love Austrian rieslings, I suppose it would be more accurate to say I love the idea of Austrian rieslings, an idea that has developed as I’ve had the opportunity to enjoy many of them. Naturally, you might ask what exactly is my idea of Austrian rieslings.
I’m so glad you asked me that. When I think of Austrian rieslings, I think of dry, structured wines with stony, pure, shimmering mineral flavors that dominate the palate, yet are never heavy or out of balance. I think of green and yellow fruits, and complex flavors etched with laserlike precision. Finally, I think of wines that are phenomenally refreshing, tangy and energetic with textures that feel so good in the mouth that you simply do not want to stop drinking the wines.
I’ve been wondering about the distinction between general notions and particular bottles in the wake of the wine panel’s recent tasting of 20 Austrian rieslings from recent vintages. Florence Fabricant and I were joined for the tasting by Raj Vaidya, the head sommelier at Daniel, and Laura Maniec, the founder of Corkbuzz Wine Studio, a wine education and events space.
While we found many wines that we liked, we also felt confused by how hard that was to do. Despite how I feel about Austrian rieslings, I was disappointed after the tasting, a feeling shared by my colleagues. Too many wines lacked the definition, focus and precision that characterize not only good Austrian rieslings but rieslings in general. They lacked energy and what I could think of only as completeness; that is, the myriad qualities that, together, make a balanced, complete wine but that stand out mostly when they are lacking.
I was nonplussed, as well. How could I like the category so much but find so many of the wines lacking? The answers came later as we learned the details of the variables in the blind tasting. Six different regions were represented, but the differences between regions were less important than the fact that the tasting was roughly divided between the 2009 and 2008 vintages, with two from 2007 thrown in for good measure.
Many in the Austrian wine trade regarded the 2009 vintage as difficult yet superb. The weather was a combination of extremes — very warm, very cool, very rainy, very dry — that gave some winemakers trouble but that in the end resulted in opulent, full-bodied rieslings with plenty of tropical fruit. By contrast, the cooler 2008 vintage was not considered to be as good for rieslings, while 2007 was thought to be in the middle between 2008 and 2009.
Paradoxically, we much preferred the ’08s over the ’09s. Of the 10 wines from 2008 in our tasting, six of them made our Top 10, along with one from 2007 and three from 2009. What’s more, our Top 4 included three from 2008 and the one from 2007. The three 2009s that did make our Top 10 all came from superb producers who were skilled enough to transcend the issues faced by some of the others. Then again, possibly we have different standards from those of the trade.
To put it another way, the disappointment we felt about wines lacking acidity, definition and balance applied largely to the 2009s in our tasting. If you like big, ripe rieslings that display power and rich fruit, than perhaps the ’09s are for you, but if your definition of Austrian rieslings aligns with mine, then most likely you will prefer the ’08s.
Our favorite was the 2008 Graf Hardegg vom Schloss, the only wine in the tasting designated Niederösterreich. It’s a vague, generic appellation that applies to the wine because its region, Weinviertel, officially permits only grüner veltliner among white wines. Well. This unsanctioned wine was exactly the sort of exciting, inspiring, refreshing, mineral-laden wine that comes to mind when I think of Austrian rieslings. It was also, at $19, our best value.
Right behind it were three wines, including the structured, complex 2007 smaragd from Kartäuserhof in the Wachau, Austria’s most prestigious white wine region, and the gentle, well-balanced 2008 federspiel from F. X. Pichler, also from the Wachau. Incidentally, don’t let the avalanche of German wine terminology drive you off, complex as it may sound. Smaragd and federspiel are merely ripeness designations, used only in the Wachau, with smaragd representing exceptionally ripe grapes, and federspiel representing classically ripe grapes.
Our No. 4 wine is surprisingly from Wien, or Vienna, the only great metropolis in the world to have its own appellation. Yes, Vienna is a historic grape-growing region, with almost 2,000 acres of vines within its city limits. The 2008 Jutta Ambrositsch offered a deliciously powerful minerality along with flavors of flowers and herbs.
As for the three from 2009 in our Top 10, they come from Nikolaihof, Nigl and Bründlmayer, three of Austria’s top producers, and while they all appropriately reflected their vintage, they were each nonetheless complete, balanced wines, unlike some of the ’09s that we rejected.
The Nikolaihof vom Stein federspiel from the Wachau was rich and fleshy, juicy and complex, while the Nigl Privat Senftenberger Pellingen, from the Kremstal, was ripe and perfumed with flavors of tropical fruit. The Bründlmayer Steinmassel, from the Kamptal, was not quite up to the other two ’09s, with its odd combination of brininess and almost candied flavors.
Looking back on the tasting, I was relieved to find that our disappointment was not just because of overly high expectations, as Laura had initially suggested. It wasn’t only a matter of vintages — we preferred the ’08s but didn’t love all of them. And it wasn’t about location — some good wines came from overlooked regions, and poor ones came from exalted regions. In the end, the most crucial consideration was the producer.

Tasting Report
BEST VALUE
Graf Hardegg Niederösterreich, $19, *** ½
Riesling vom Schloss 2008
Tangy, energetic and plain delicious, with ripe fruit and stony mineral flavors. (Monika Caha Selections/Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York)
Kartäuserhof Wachau Riesling, $40, ***
Achleiten Smaragd 2007
Taut and refreshing with good structure and complex flavors of minerals and flowers. (Metrowine, Stamford, Conn.)
F.X. Pichler Wachau Riesling, $42, ***
Federspiel Urgestein Terrassen 2008
Well balanced with pleasing flavors of citrus and herbs and a gentle minerality. (Weygandt-Metzler, Unionville, Pa.)
Jutta Ambrositsch Wien Riesling, $35, ***
Nussberg Ried Preussen 2008
Mineral, mineral, mineral, along with flavors of flowers and herbs. (Darcy & Huber Selections, Mount Vernon, N.Y.)
Nikolaihof Wachau Riesling, $29, ** ½
Vom Stein Federspiel 2009
Rich and fleshy, juicy and complex, with a nutlike quality. (Terry Theise Estate Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.)
Emmerich Knoll Wachau Riesling, $65, ** ½
Smaragd Kellerberg Durnsteiner 2008
Lively and energetic, with bright citrus, herbal, earth and melon flavors. (deGrazia Imports, Winston-Salem, N.C.)
Nigl Kremstal Riesling, $45, ** ½
Privat Senftenberger Pellingen 2009
Ripe and perfumed with tangy, lingering flavors of tropical fruit and herbs. (Terry Theise Estate Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.)
Bründlmayer Kamptal Riesling, $29, **
Steinmassel 2009
Creamy and earthy, with an unusual combination of briny and candied flavors. (Terry Theise Estate Selections/Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, N.Y.)
Sepp Moser Kremstal Riesling, $26, **
Von den Terrassen 2008
Direct and straightforward with fresh, tangy mineral flavors. (Martin Scott Wines, Lake Success, N.Y.)
Josef Schmid Kremstal Riesling, $26, **
Reserve Sunogein 2008
Fresh and light-bodied, with floral and apple flavors. (Vias Imports, New York)

http://www.nytimes.com/2011/05/11/dining/reviews/11wine.html?_r=2

Leading supplier of fine vintage wines from France, Spain, Italy, Napa Valley, Australia, Chile, Argentina, South Africa, Germany and Austria YATS VINTAGE WINE CELLARS has been serving Asia’s wine enthusiasts and connoisseurs since 1985. Today the wine cellars of this wine store stock over 2700 labels of wines from all major wine regions and the biggest spectrum of vintages imaginable spanning over 100 years. Wines were purchased in opportune situations allowing us to offer superb values to our customers and wine collectors.

Yats Vintage Wine Cellars is generally regarded by Asian and Philippines wine lovers as the best wine supplier of old vintage wines in Asia. Its cellars are located in a new cosmopolitan city just outside of Manila Philippines in Clark Freeport which has its own international airport named DMIA. Wine lovers from Japan, Korea, Hong Kong, Thailand and Indonesia travel to Philippines Clark Freeport to purchase these limited rare bottles of fine vintage wine. Now wine lovers in Hong Kong can select and purchase these wines for deliver to their offices and homes in Hong Kong. This wine shop is generally regarded by wine lovers to be the best place to buy wine in Manila.

Wines from new world regions are well represented at this wine shop in Quezon City, Ortigas, Eastwood, Makati, Fort, Alabang, Metro Manila, Philippines. Fine wines from Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Argentina and South Africa are offered in their wine shops, wine bars and fine dining restaurants throughout the Philippines, Metro Manila and Pampanga. Old world wines from France, Spain, Italy, Portugal, Germany and Austria are also well represented in this famous wine shop and wine stores of Yats also.

Fine red wine, white wine and sparkling wines are all available in this highly recommended wine shop in Pampanga and Metro Manila. This wine shop is also famous for its offering of fine vintage ports from famous producers like Graham, Dow, Quinta do Noval, Taylor, Nieeport and Barros. Champagne, Prosecco, Cava and Sekt sparkling wines are also very popular in the wine shops and wine stores of Yats in Quezon City, Ortigas, Eastwood, Makati, Fort, Alabang, Metro Manila, Philippines.

Yats Wine Cellars Philippines
3003C East Tower, Philippines Stock Exchange Center (Tektite)
Exchange Road, Ortigas Center, Metro Manila, Philippines
(632) 637-5019 0917-520-4393 ask for Rea or Kristine

http://www.YatsWineCellars.com

For inquiries and orders, Click here to for inquiries and orders

For wine lovers in Hong Kong, Macau and China:

Yats International HK Sales Office,
Room 1302, 13/F., The Centre Mark
287-299 Queen’s Road Central Sheung Wan,
Hong Kong SAR

Tel: (852) 2788-0738 ask for Miss Eva Leung

Wine@Yats-International.com

If Philippines is part of an upcoming travel and holiday plan, wine lovers might want to visit Clark Freeport Zone just 70 minutes from Manila. This bustling new city that is slated to replace Manila as the new capital of the Philippines has the largest wine shop called Clark Wine Center. For more information, log on to

http://www.ClarkWineCenter.com

Clark Wine Center
Bldg 6460 Clark Observatory Building
Manuel A. Roxas Highway corner A Bonifacio Ave,
Angeles Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga 2023
0922-870-5173 0917-826-8790 (ask for Ana Fe)

Getting to this wine shop in Pampanga Angeles City Clark Freeport Zone Philippines from Manila
Getting to the Clark Wine Center wine shop from Manila is quite simple: after entering Clark Freeport from Dau and Angeles City, proceed straight along the main highway M A Roxas. Clark Wine Center is the stand-along white building on the right, at the corner A Bonifacio Ave. From the Clark International Airport DMIA, ask the taxi to drive towards the entrance of Clark going to Angeles City. From Mimosa, just proceed towards the exit of Clark and this wine shop is on the opposite side of the main road M A Roxas.

Looking for famous tourists spots, places to visit and see, relax and unwind in Clark, Pampanga, Philippines? You may want to check out these sites also:

Wedding couples looking for wedding reception venues and beach wedding venues can log on to this Philippines Wedding Venue web site for free information and assistance:

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While in Clark, it might be a good idea to enjoy an evening of wine-and-dine in the fine dining Yats Restaurant and Wine Bar that features an award winning 2700-line wine list. It is located in Mimosa Leisure Estate of Clark Freeport Zone. For more information, visit http://www.YatsRestaurant.com

YATS Leisure Philippines is a developer and operator of clubs, resorts and high-class restaurants and wine shops in Clark Angeles Philippines http://www.YatsLeisure.com

http://www.LondonPubClark.com

If you are traveling to Pampanga, Subic, Angeles City, Clark Freeport, Philippines, you can get assistance to hotel and resort booking by logging on to
http://www.HotelClarkPhilippines.com

http://www.ClarkPhilippines.com