Australia’s acid test

Have drinkers noticed that the country’s big wine brands have changed their flavour profiles over the past half-decade? High quality global journalism requires investment. Please share this article with others using the link below, do not cut & paste the article. See our Ts&Cs and Copyright Policy for more detail. Email ftsales.support@ft.com to buy additional rights. http://www.ft.com/cms/s/2/d4723b3a-e66a-11e1-ac5f-00144feab49a.html#ixzz250O6qrbe
Consistency marks a divide in the wine world. “Consumers who are uncertain about wine,” says Bernard Hickin, chief winemaker for leading Australian brand Jacob’s Creek, “find consistency reassuring”. Wines that express a sense of place, by contrast, are proudly inconsistent: their drinkers prefer to taste the changing nuances of season and place, and of evolution in the bottle. The consuming psychology is a different one.
The success of Australian wine brands over the past two decades has been predicated on the skill with which their winemakers and blenders have been able to achieve consistency. The fact that almost 60 per cent of the country’s wine grapes come from the warm, inland, irrigated regions of the Murray-Darling basin has helped. Copious sunshine, though, has been matched in Australia by unrivalled technical adroitness at vinifying and blending raw materials. The “Aussie taste” – generous, bright, high-impact – has been historically based on clean, light-textured, un-tannic fruit flavours backed with high acidity, alcohol and oak. Such wines were stable and travelled well. Screwcap closures upped the levels of consistency still further.
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What, though, if public taste changes? A consistent asset may then become a consistent handicap. Big California brands have always had softer acid profiles and more sweetness than Australian brands, and over the past decade these have made inroads into the sale of Australian wine brands in the UK. (Britain’s biggest-selling wine brand is Blossom Hill, with Echo Falls and Gallo third and fourth, though all three source internationally rather than in California alone.) “What is it with you Aussies and acidity?” the late California vintner Robert Mondavi famously used to ask. The success of Chile’s major brands, moreover, has been built on a softer, less acidic contour line than was typical for Australian wine.
From 2001 onwards, too, the [yellowtail] phenomenon changed the Australian wine landscape. This brand ballooned from nothing to 12 million cases per year in less than a decade. What commentators noticed about [yellowtail] wines, and what US drinkers in particular liked about them, were their high levels of sugar (about 9g/l compared with a maximum of 4g/l for most Australian brands). No less significant, though, was the fact that acid levels were lower than the Australian norm, both in absolute terms (about 6g/l in some of the reds) and more particularly in terms of percipience, since the presence of sugar buffers and masks the sensation of acidity. [yellowtail] softened big-brand Australia.
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I am genuinely curious as to whether most drinkers have noticed, but the fact is that most big Australian brands have changed their flavour profiles markedly over the past half-decade. Take Jacob’s Creek, for example. “Between 1995 and 2005,” remembers Hickin, “alcohols went up. People were choosing concentration at the expense of balance. Some of our reds were nudging 14.5 per cent, and Jacob’s Creek Chardonnay peaked at 13.7 or 13.8 per cent. The reds are now down to 13-13.5 per cent, and the Chardonnay is around 12.5 per cent.” The acid levels in both wines used to be 6.5g/l, but have now eased to between 5.5g and 6g/l. The changes may look numerically slight, but the taste impact is dramatic. The approach to tannin, too, is different. “We used to add tannins between the mid-1990s and 2002, but then we gave it up. We’re trying to draw the tannins from the skins. The Classic Range gets seven to 10 days on the skins, and the Reserve Range 12-14 days.” In a country like Australia, famous for racing up to five successive wines through each tank per vintage, this requires effort.
Nor is Orlando Wines (the Pernod-Ricard-owned producer of Jacob’s Creek) alone. Up in the bulk producing area of Riverina, I chatted to John Coughlin, senior white-winemaker for De Bortoli, and his red-wine counterpart, Julie Mortlock. Both confirmed they have lowered alcohol and acidity levels, and stressed that oak is much subtler now, too. “We still use chips,” says Mortlock, “but the quality has improved hugely.” “I’ve more than halved the oak influence on some of our big blends,” adds Coughlin. “I don’t want that ‘bourbon’ character any more.”
“We started to move away from higher acid when we began to work with Gallo about 10 or 12 years ago,” remembers Jim Brayne, chief operating officer for rival Riverina giant McWilliam’s. “Our Hanwood range now has an acidity of 5.8g/l, whereas a decade ago they were at least 6.5g/l.” He stresses that they use other techniques such as seed removal, giving up oak chips in favour of staves, plus giving white wines as much time on the lees as possible, and reds as long on skins as possible in order to soften and fill out flavour. All the big companies now buy their red grapes based on colour analysis rather than sugar levels, for qualitative reasons.
Most of the big brands, too, are trying to tempt their faithful drinkers upmarket with range extensions pinned to regional origins – which means moving away from their river Murray roots. Jacob’s Creek has a Reserve range with regional origins, and is planning a single-vineyard series too. McWilliam’s is stratifying its offer in the same way. Even [yellowtail] has a Reserve range, and “super-premium” range 1919.
They aren’t Australia’s greatest wines, but they are an improvement on the old “big brand” model of technically unimpeachable, but boring, sometimes aggressive wines. The whites, indeed, are surprisingly good, though the red wines could benefit still further, I feel, from greater textural density and lower acidities. The wines listed here face a big challenge at the UK’s most qualitatively competitive price of £9.99.
“We’re trying to be less interventionist. The more minimalist you can be, the more you’ll retain the sense of place.” It required a pinch to remind myself that this was not a terroir fanatic speaking, heading back to Australia after seven years in Beaune to make Pinot in Tasmania or Nebbiolo in Victoria, but the head winemaker of Jacob’s Creek. He seemed sincere.
Andrew Jefford’s weekly blog ‘Jefford on Monday’ appears every Monday on www.decanter.com
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Trailer One

Clark Wine Center was built in 2003 by Hong Kong-based Yats International Leisure Philippines to become the largest wine shop in Philippines supplying Asia’s wine lovers with fine vintage wines at attractive prices. Today, this wine shop in Clark Philippines offers over 2000 selections of fine wines from all major wine regions in the world. As a leading wine supplier in Philippines, Pampanga’s Clark Wine Center offers an incomparable breadth of vintages, wines from back vintages spanning over 50 years. Clark Wine Center is located in Pampanga Clark Freeport Zone adjacent to Angeles City, just 25 minutes from Subic and 45 minutes from Manila.

Things to do in Clark Philippines and Pampanga: do a little wine shopping at the famous wine shop outside of Manila called Clark Wine Center. One of the favorite places to visit in Pampanga Clark Freeport is the white building along M A Roxas highway of Clark which houses over 2000 selections of fine vintage wines. The Clark Wine Center is one of the places to visit, a tourist spot and a good shopping place for those staying in Angeles City, Subic or Clark Pampanga. It is lauded by food and wine lovers in Manila, Subic and Pampanga as the best wine shop outside Manila as well as a good place to buy wine in Pampanga.

Residents of Pampanga Angeles City, Subic, Tarlac and Clark Philippines know of this wine shop as one of the best places in Clark, a good night out place and simply the best place to hang out, enjoy some good wine with cheese on the roof deck with good atmosphere, or just relax and unwind with friends and family in a cool place. This wine shop in Clark Pampanga is recognized by many to be one of the best places to buy fine vintage wine in the Philippines. Located near Mimosa Leisure Estate surrounded by golf courses, resorts and a casino, this well known wine shop is frequently visited for its good selection of wine not available in Manila or Subic. Clark Wine Center is open 7 days a week from 10am to 8pm. Private dinners, wine tastings and group gatherings can be organized by advanced reservation.

Foodies and wine lovers travel north from Manila to wine and dine at Philippines’ best fine dining restaurant in Pampanga Clark Freeport worth the 60-minutes drive for a memorable evening of good food with vintage wine at Yats Restaurant & Wine Bar. Most guests would stop by this famous wine shop called Clark Wine Center to bring home a few good bottles of fine vintage wine also. Other visitors may find the wine selections in some of the restaurants in Angeles City Pampanga to be less than interesting, so they stop by this wine shop near Angeles City Pampanga Clark Philippines, buy some good wines and bring these bottles of good vintage wines to the restaurants so they can enjoy the dinner.

Wines from Burgundy, Bordeaux, Rhone, Loire, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Austria, Alsace, USA, Australia, New Zealand, Italy, South Africa, Chile and Argentina etc. are well represented in this Clark Wine Shop which is lauded by wine and food lovers from Manila and tourists from abroad as the best place to buy wine in Pampanga.

This is one of the frequently visited places for wine lovers from Manila and Angeles City to buy wines in Pampanga.

http://www.ClarkWineCenter.com

Getting to this wine shop in Pampanga Angeles City Clark Freeport Zone Philippines from Manila
Getting to the Clark Wine Center wine shop from Manila is quite simple: after entering Clark Freeport from Dau and Angeles City, proceed straight along the main highway M A Roxas. Clark Wine Center is the stand-along white building on the right, at the corner A Bonifacio Ave. From the Clark International Airport DMIA, ask the taxi to drive towards the entrance of Clark going to Angeles City. From Mimosa, just proceed towards the exit of Clark and this wine shop is on the opposite side of the main road M A Roxas.

Best place to buy wine in Clark Pampanga outside Manila near Subic and Angeles City Philippines is Clark Wine Center.

Click here to contact Clark Wine Center in Clark Pampanga for inquiries and orders.

Yats Leisure Philippines

Clark Wine Center
Bldg 6460 Clark Observatory Building
Manuel A. Roxas Highway corner A Bonifacio Ave,
Angeles Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga 2023

Tel: 0922-870-5173 0917-826-8790 (ask for Ana Fe)

Wine@Yats-International.com

YATS Wine Cellars
Manila Sales Office
3003C East Tower, Phil Stock Exchange Center,
Exchange Road, Ortigas Centger,
Metro Manila, Philippines 1605

Tel: (632) 637-5019 0917-540-3626 ask for Rea or Chay

Log on to this web site for more information about Yats Wine Cellars as the leading wine importer and wine supplier in the Philippines:

ats Wine Cellars Leading Wine Supplier in Philippines

Wedding couples looking for wedding reception venues and beach wedding venues can log on to this Philippines Wedding Venue web site for free information and assistance:

http://www.PhilippinesWeddingVenue.com

While in Clark, it might be a good idea to enjoy an evening of wine-and-dine in the fine dining Yats Restaurant and Wine Bar that features an award winning 2700-line wine list. Highly recommended fine dining restaurant in Manila for special occasion is Yats Restaurant & Wine Lounge located in the famous Mimosa Leisure Estate in Clark Pampanga. Situated near this popular restaurant in Clark is the Mimosa Golf Course as well as the Mimosa Clark Casino. This top rated restaurant near Angeles City Pampanga in Clark Philippines is frequently used for private parties and corporate functions such as board meetings and other gatherings. It is located in Mimosa Leisure Estate of Clark Freeport Zone. For more information, visit http://www.YatsRestaurant.com

YATS Leisure Philippines is a developer and operator of clubs, resorts and high-class restaurants and wine shops in Clark Angeles Philippines http://www.YatsLeisure.com

Looking for famous tourists spots, places to visit and see, relax and unwind in Clark, Pampanga, Philippines? You may want to check out these sites also:

http://www.LondonPubClark.com

Besides good restaurants to wine and dine near Manila, Subic or in Angeles City Pampanga, Clark Philippines, those requiring assistance for hotel and resort bookings in Clark, Pampanga, Philippines may log on to http://www.HotelClarkPhilippines.com for more information and reservations.

The lifestyle in Clark Pampanga is quite unique. For more information about shopping, sports, golf, leisure, hotel accommodation, where to see and visit, what to do, where to wine and dine and good places to hang out, relax, have a drink with friends, child-friendly establishments, log on to
http://www.ClarkPhilippines.com

Wine lovers looking for a special bottle or something that is of great value and special discounts might log on to this web site to shop for fine vintage wines
http://www.YatsWineCellars.com

TRAILER TWO

Tourists and residents of Manila travel out of town to the north on a short getaway look for the best place in Clark to buy some fine vintage wine to bring home after their holidays and vacations. Many find a top rated wine shop called Clark Wine Center to be an exciting place to do some shopping in Clark Pampanga. This famous wine shop is highly recommended for visitors going to Clark Pampanga to drink good wine, relax and unwind with friends and families. Clark Wine Center is also lauded by wine and food lovers from Manila and tourists from abroad as the best place to buy wine in Pampanga.

This frequently visited wine shop outside Manila is known by tourist and visitors to Pampanga, Angeles city, Subic and Clark Philippines as a cool place to hang out in Clark. Many attend the regular wine tasting held either outdoor on the roof deck or in indoor on the second floor above the wine shop. The place has good atmosphere for a private wine tasting party or a small night out gatherings for business or social event. Clark Wine Center is lauded by food and wine lovers in Manila, Subic and Pampanga as the best wine shop outside Manila as well as a good place to buy wine in Pampanga.

Tourists and visitors staying in Angeles City, Tarlac, Baguio, Subic and Pampanga sometimes wonder what are the things to do in Clark Philippines and Pampanga? Frequent visitors to Pampanga discover that it is fun to do a little wine shopping at the famous wine shop outside of Manila called Clark Wine Center. One of the favorite places to visit in Pampanga Clark Freeport is the white building along M A Roxas highway of Clark which houses over 2000 selections of fine vintage wines. The Clark Wine Center is one of the places to visit, a tourist spot and a good shopping place for those staying in Angeles City, Subic or Clark Pampanga.

Leading Philippines Wine Supplier Yats Wine Cellars, leading supplier of fine wines in Philippines with outlets in Angeles City, Subic Freeport and Manila Philippines has been not only a wine shop for fine wines covering all major wine regions but also a source of reliable and useful information about wine, wine appreciation, wine accessories, wine and health, food and wine pairing and all other matters relating to wine and its appreciation. This Philippines Clark Freeport based Wine Supplier and Wine Shop frequently holds public wine tasting events in Pampanga Clark Freeport Zone, Angeles City, Subic Bay area, Makati, Fort Bonifacio and other areas in Philippines capital city Manila. Private Wine events such as private wine tasting and private wine dinners are also designed and organized for private clientele for their wine loving guests.

Log on to this web site for more information about Yats Wine Cellars as the leading wine importer and wine supplier in the Philippines:

ats Wine Cellars Leading Wine Supplier in Philippines

Wine Catering is a unique product of Yats Wine Cellars, created back in 2005 in response to a growing demand for private wine parties in Manila, Cebu, Subic, Angeles Clark Philippines.

Chateau Lafite-Rothschild is the most revered wine in China and many other parts of Asia. The best wine shop in Asia to buy older vintages of Chateau Lafite is Yats Wine Cellars located in Clark Philippines. Aside from Lafite, visitors can buy other fine wines at this wine shop in Clark Pampanga such as Latour, Mouton-Rothschild, Haut-Brion and Margaux. Excellent Burgundy wines like Chambertin, Vougeot, Musigny, Bonnes Mares, Pommard, Meursault, Chambertin, Vosne Romanee, Romanee Conti, La Tache and Romanee St. Vivant can be found here.

Yats Wine Cellars can be reached at their Clark Wine Center Philippines wine shop located on the main highway M A Roxas of Pampanga Clark Freeport Zone or their sales office in Ortigas Centre, Metro Manila. Here is the contact information:

http://www.ClarkWineCenter.com

Best place to buy wine in Clark Pampanga outside Manila near Subic and Angeles City Philippines is Clark Wine Center.

Click here to contact Clark Wine Center in Clark Pampanga for inquiries and orders.

Clark Wine Center

Yats Leisure Philippines

Bldg 6460 Clark Observatory Building
Manuel A. Roxas Highway corner A Bonifacio Ave,
Angeles Clark Freeport Zone, Pampanga 2023
0922-870-5173 0917-826-8790 (ask for Ana Fe)

Wine@Yats-International.com

YATS Wine Cellars
Manila Sales Office
3003C East Tower, Phil Stock Exchange Center,
Exchange Rd Ortigas Metro Manila, Philippines 1605
(632) 637-5019 0917-520-4393 ask for Rea or Chay

Log on to this web site for more information about Yats Wine Cellars as the leading wine importer and wine supplier in the Philippines:

ats Wine Cellars Leading Wine Supplier in Philippines

Wedding couples looking for wedding reception venues and beach wedding venues can log on to this Philippines Wedding Venue web site for free information and assistance:

http://www.PhilippinesWeddingVenue.com

YATS Leisure Philippines is a developer and operator of clubs, resorts and high-class restaurants and wine shops in Clark Angeles Philippines http://www.YatsLeisure.com

Looking for famous tourists spots, places to visit and see, relax and unwind in Clark, Pampanga, Philippines? You may want to check out these sites also:

http://www.LondonPubClark.com

Wine lovers looking for a special bottle or something that is of great value and special discounts might log on to this web site to shop for fine vintage wines
http://www.YatsWineCellars.com

Those visitors who plan to relax and unwind in Angeles City, Subic, Pampanga, Clark Philippines might make an effort to book a room at the famous beach and lake resort Clearwater Resort & Country Club. This famous hotel in Clark Pampanga is frequently visited by families with children looking for a good place in Clark to see, a good holiday destination for the family to relax and unwind in the beautiful outdoor facilities. For more information, log on to www.ClearwaterPhilippines.com
Buy wine gift baskets in Philippines from Yats Wine Cellars. Wine lovers in Philippines can find good wines from major wine regions around the world in wine shops in Manila and Pampanga. Among the good selections of fine vintage wines from Italy, Spain, Portugal, Germany, Austria and other parts of Europe. Rare vintage wines from Vega Sicilia, Biondi Santi, Sassicaia as well as the Ice wine from Germany can be found in good wine shops around Manila. This makes it easy and convenient for wine lovers to buy wine in Manila. If you are thinking of buying wines to give as gift in the Philippines, then contact Yats Wine Cellars now because they offer special vintage wines suitable as gift at all price points. Since most of these wines are not available in Manila, these wine gifts are excellent choices for corporate gifts as well as wine gifts for personal and social purposes. These can be wines or wine baskets.

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